Wave Modelling
The identification of areas of greatest threat from waves is performed using the wave modeling, which computes random, short-crested wind-generated waves in coastal regions. The model predicts a 2D wave wave field and accounts for the following physics: 1) wave propagation in time and space, shoaling, refraction due to current and depth, frequency shifting due to currents and nonstationary depth; 2) wave generation by wind; 3) three- and four-wave interactions; 4) whitecapping, bottom friction, and depth-induced breaking; 5) wave induced setup; 6) propagation from laboratory up to global scales; 7) transmission through and reflection from obstacles.
In the image above results of the wave model for a portion of the District 3 area of Lunenburg, Nova Scotia are shown. The blue and red areas represent small and large waves respectively.